TILAPIA AND MASHED YAMS WITH PANCETTA-SAGE BREADCRUMBS 2 ounces thinly sliced pancetta(Italian bacon), chopped 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs(from French or sourdough bread with crust, ground in processor) 1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons chopped fresh sage 2 pounds medium yams (red-skinned sweet potatoes), pierced all over with fork 3 tablespoons butter, divided 4 5- to 6-ounce tilapia fillets or eight Saute pancetta in large nonstick skillet over medium heat until crisp. Transfer to small bowl. Add breadcrumbs and 1 tablespoon chopped sage to drippings in skillet; stir over medium-high heat until breadcrumbs are almost crisp, 5 minutes. Transfer to bowl with pancetta. Cool (reserve skillet). Place yams on plate and microwave on high until very soft, 5 to 8 minutes per side. depending on size of yam. Transfer yams to work surface. Cut yams in half lengthwise; scoop out pulp and place in medium glass bowl. Discard skin. Add remaining 1'/2 teaspoons chopped sage and 1 tablespoon butter to yams; mash until almost smooth. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Sprinkle fish fillets with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in same nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add fish fillets and cook until golden brown on outside and just opaque in center, 3 to 4 minutes per side. If necessary, rewarm yams in microwave. Divide mashed yams among 4 plates. Top each serving with 1 fish fillet, sprinkle generously with pancetta-sage breadcrumbs, and serve. SERVES: 4 SOURCE: Bon Appetit, Jan 01